Seed Starting Guide

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Seed starting can feel like a daunting task. I used to just buy plants from a nursery and transplant them into the garden. However, I wanted a bigger garden every year and buying all those transplants cost a lot of money. Plus, some of the plants I was interested in, simply could not be transplanted. I found out quickly that I needed a seed starting guide to help me save money and start planning.

When picking seeds to grow, I would love to do it all. I love everything from the smallest pea to the largest pumpkin. Finding out what plants like to grow in your area and what they require must be considered before planting the first seed.

First seed starting task is to look at your growing Zone. I am in Zone 5. There are lots of maps online that show what Zone you are in. Some things might not grow in my Zone because I have a cold winter and shorter growing season than Zone 7+.

Next, find out what kind of sun is in the area you are planning a garden. Does the sun shine all day in that spot or does it have some trees, bushes or other things blocking some or all of the sun? Most seed packages will tell you full-sun, partial-sun or shade plants. If no light directions are listed, look up the plant and find it easily online.

Next, find out when the plants like to grow. In my Zone 5, I have cool and warm season plants. Cool season will grow in spring and fall. Cool season plants do not like the heat of summer time and will either die back or struggle to produce a crop. Examples are broccoli, cauliflower, peas, and some lettuces. Warm season plants will grow in the summer. Warm season plants love the summer heat and do not do well around any type of cool weather or frost. Some examples are tomatoes, pumpkins, peppers and melons.

Lastly, check the watering or soil conditions for the plant. Some plants love to be in moist soil, while others need dry soil with a deep watering. Think about if you have the time or tools to water the plants. Warm season plants tend to like dry soil with a weekly deep/ heavy watering. While cool season plants tend to like a slightly moist but not soggy soil all the time.

Planning out a garden is just as important as finding out the plant needs. Look at the space you have and how much space is needed for the plant. Plants like lettuces and carrots do not take up much space but watermelon and vines types take up several feet of space. Try container or vertical planting to save space.

Where to buy the seeds? Almost everywhere these days. I have seen them in Walmart, Lowe's, Menards, any place that sells plants, and online. I like to buy most of mine from local seed farmers, as they have so many varieties and heirloom plants.

When starting seeds indoors, look for a very bright south facing window in your home or use grow lights. If you do not have a super bright window or grow lights, winter sowing might be a better option.

I have a 4 foot wide by 4 tier shelf with grow lights hanging on 3 of the shelves. As plants grow taller, I move the plants around as I continue to add more seedlings onto the shelves. Growing around 1000 seedlings each year, I find ways to squeeze as many seedling as I can on the shelves.

I have both fluorescent and LED lights. I mostly use the 4 foot fluorescent 5T 6500k "Full Sun Light" to start the seedlings because they have the perfect bright light spectrum and high lumens that plants need. Using a 8T or cooler light often causes leggy seedling.

Then as the plants get bigger, I use these light weight 4 foot LED garage lights that have a cool light spectrum and high lumens. These LED lights can be father away from the plants and sometimes are too strong for little seedlings. If you are looking to use a 2 foot wide shelf to start your seedlings on, try the 2ft fluorescent light or the 2ft LED lights.

Buy a good seed starting bagged soil mix or make your own seed starting soil by measuring out several cups of soil or coco-coir into a large mixing container. Coco-coir is just shredded and compressed coconut shells. It is easily found on Amazon or a local nursery. Then I add perlite and compost or worm castings to the soil in a 7:1:1 ratio. Worm castings (feces) are more nutrient dense than compost but either will work fine. So 7 cups of dirt to 1 cup of perlite and 1 cup of compost. Mix well.

When using coco-coir make sure to add water to allow for the compressed matter to expand. Measure out the coco-coir after it has expanded.

Add water and mix to allow it to be quite moist. Starting with a pre-moistened soil helps keep the seeds at a consistent level of wetness.

Next, find the right container. I like using seeds starting trays or containers that are no larger than 4 inches tall. The seeds need to be able to grow roots and find water without wasting too much energy. Make sure the containers fit nicely in a tray that is at least 1-3 inches deep. The deeper the container, the deeper the tray below.

I like this 3 inch container and tray set. And also, this one for smaller 2 inch container and tray sets.

Now it is time to plant the seeds. I have made a seed starting guide for each month that lists what to start. January gardening, February gardening, March gardening, April gardening, and May gardening. Make sure to look ahead and find the right seeds for the month, as some can take a lot longer than one may think to grow big enough to transplant.

First I take my pre-moistened seed starting soil mix and fill the container up to almost the top.

Figure out how many seeds to place into the container. I grow lots of plants close together as seedlings and then separate them out into larger containers.

Sprinkle the seeds onto the top of the soil. Lightly cover the seeds with a thin layer of soil. Do not forget to mark the name of each seed spot either on the container or create a map on a piece of paper.

Heavily spray by misting water to the top of the soil.

Lightly press the soil down into the container just a few centimeters to keep the seeds secure.

Place a piece of plastic wrap over the containers until the seedlings emerge. Then remove to allow good airflow. If needed, I use a small fan to keep the air circulating.

Also, keep the soil moist on top until the seedlings emerge. Then start watering the containers by putting the water in the tray below the container (bottom watering). This will help strengthen the roots and prevent algae growth.

Keep the seedlings close to a sunny window or a few inches away from a grow light. Turning the containers can help with long leggy seedlings.

As the seedlings grow, I move the indoor light farther away to prevent light damage.

I have never used a heat mat and always have been able to grow seedlings. From what I understand, they are only used to heat up the soil enough to sprout the seed and then need to be taken away from the seedling.

Once the seedlings are big and strong enough, I transplant them into a larger container.

I will often move the plant trays outside during the day and back inside at night to help them gain strength from wind and direct sunlight a week before transplanting.

The plants can also be planted outdoors into the ground, raised bed or large container once the conditions are right.

Starting seeds outdoors is a much easier process. As guessed, it is mostly placing seeds in the ground and watering until the seedlings emerge. This is called direct sown seeds.

I like to grow many seeds straight into the ground that do not transfer well. Root vegetable plants like carrots, potatoes and radishes do best direct sown. Follow seed package directions for depth and watering needs.

When planting seeds right into the space they will stay, try to prepare the area as best as possible.

Preparing the soil by clearing unwanted plants or weeds, loosening the top layer of soil and providing nutrients.

Having a good mix of shredded leaves, compost and non clay-like soil will be good for most plants.

For more info on how I prepare the garden bed, go to my preparing the garden page.